Marmot Athletes Tackle Peru's Alpine Bouldering and Mixed Climbs

2012 Incan Odyssey: Marmot Athletes Tackle Peru's Alpine Bouldering and Mixed Climbs
Author:
Updated:
Original:

Rohnert Park, CA: Marmot Athletes, Abbey Smith, Pete Takeda and Paige Claassen, recently returned from a multiple-disciplined, climbing expedition to Peru's Cordillera Blanca mountain range, located in the heart of the Andes. For more than 30 days, straddling the months of June and July, the climbing team established over 40 high-alpine boulder problems near their 15,000-foot base camp and attempted some of the surrounding 5000 and 6000 meter peaks, including a difficult unclimbed north face.

The team's high-mountain adventure to Peru, aptly named The Incan Odyssey, mirrored The Zanskar Odyssey, a 2010 expedition in the Indian Himalayas that also resulted in meaningful first ascents and a noteworthy documentary film. The Incan Odyssey expedition also included a media capture and support team: Mick Follari, a photographer and an accomplished alpinist; Andy Mann, a filmmaker and photographer; and Alex Gilbert, expedition manager and a full-time Marmot employee.

The boulder problems ranged in difficulty from V0-V11 and up to 35 feet tall. Abbey Smith (29) established a 35-foot-tall highball named Breathless (V11), perhaps the highest and hardest boulder problem in the world. In a recent interview with Smith (pictured), she explained, “The line had all the aesthetics, difficulty, height and challenge at altitude that I hoped I would find—it was the high-ball I had always dreamed about.”

For Paige Claassen (23), a world-class sport climber, the high alpine bouldering made for the perfect first-time expedition experience. “The smooth glaciated granite was so pristine—so pure and so fun to climb—that I couldn't help but catch a fire for bouldering in a way I typically only experience sport climbing,” she explained.

During their month-long stay, the team also completed several new ice and mixed climbs in the M6, WI 5 range. They also attempted new routes on surrounding 5000 and 6000 meter peaks. Pete Takeda (46) and Mick Follari (40) attempted a difficult route up an unclimbed north face. The climb ended when Takeda took a 35 foot fall, injuring the ribs on his right side. "I used up the sixth out of my nine lives," remarked Takeda, who is widely respected for his bold and pioneering alpine climbs.

The Incan Odyssey Team will be attending the Summer Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, Utah, August 2-5. Marmot Athletes, Abbey Smith, Paige Claassen and Pete Takeda, will be signing posters at Marmot's trade show booth on Friday, August 3 from 4-6. A short video clip (2-minutes) from The Incan Odyssey expedition will be shown during this time and free beer will be served. The booth party is a benefit for Access PanAm and donations for Peruvian mementoes will go to the organization: www.accesopanam.com

About Marmot Mountain, LLC
Marmot is an award-winning, globally distributed brand of high-performance, technical clothing, apparel and equipment. Since 1974, Marmot products have been worn by climbers, skiers, mountaineers and adventurers world-wide. Marmot works with professional mountain guides, world-class athletes and expeditions—pushing the limits of product innovation and technology—pioneering what is possible in the most extreme environments on earth. For more information, please visit www.marmot.com.

About Jarden Corporation
Jarden Corporation is a leading provider of a diverse range of consumer products with a portfolio of over 100 trusted, quality brands sold globally. Jarden operates in three primary business segments through a number of well recognized brands, including: Outdoor Solutions: Abu Garcia®, Aero®, Berkley®, Campingaz® and Coleman®, ExOfficio®, Fenwick®, Gulp!®, K2®, Marker®, Marmot®, Mitchell®, Penn®, Rawlings®, Shakespeare®, Stearns®, Stren®, Trilene®, Völkl® and Zoot®; Consumer Solutions: Bionaire®, Crock-Pot®, FoodSaver®, Health o meter®, Holmes®, Mr. Coffee®, Oster®, Patton®, Rival®, Seal-a-Meal®, Sunbeam®, VillaWare® and White Mountain®; and Branded Consumables: Ball®, Bee®, Bernardin®, Bicycle®, Billy Boy®, Crawford®, Diamond®, Dicon®, Fiona®, First Alert®, First Essentials®, Hoyle®, Kerr®, Lehigh®, Lillo®, Loew Cornell®, Mapa®, NUK®, Pine Mountain®, Quickie®, Spontex® and Tigex®. Headquartered in Rye, N.Y., Jarden ranks #371 on the Fortune 500 and has over 23,000 employees worldwide. For in-depth information about Jarden, please visit www.jarden.com.

Related

Abbey Smith Joins Marmot’s Global Athlete Team

Marmot Athlete, Abbey Smith high-ball bouldering in the Henry Mountains, Utah Photo: Jason Kehl Collection Santa Rosa (CA) – Climber, writer and adventurer, Abbey Smith is the most recent addition to Marmot's global athlete team. The petite and high-energy Smith (26) joins a ...read more

Marmot Athlete Fabrizio Zangrilli Set for K2

Marmot Athlete Fabrizio Zangrilli Set to Lead Unprecedented Expedition to K2 Boulder, CO: Top alpinist Fabrizio Zangrilli – a recent addition to Marmot's global athlete team – will lead what might be the first-ever commercially organized expedition of its kind to K2. ...read more

DSC_1692

Marmot Athlete Sean Swarner Tackles North Pole on ‘Mission of Hope’ Expedition

Rohnert Park, CA – Sean Swarner, a two-time cancer survivor and one of Marmot’s most inspiring athletes, will embark early next month on his ‘Mission of Hope’ expedition to the North Pole. The expedition will be a seminal moment for Swarner as a mountaineer, but the adventure is ...read more

Marmot Athlete Adrian Ballinger Returns to Everest’s Summit

Marmot Athlete Adrian Ballinger Returns to Everest’s SummitEverest Base Camp (Nepal): On May 5, Adrian Ballinger, one of Marmot’s Global Athletes, became the first western climber to reach the summit of Everest for the 2010 climbing season. Ballinger, who is an experienced IFMGA ...read more

Paige Claassen

Marmot’s Paige Claassen Sets Forth on 12-month “LEAD NOW” Climbing Odyssey

Marmot’s Paige Claassen Sets Forth on 12-month “LEAD NOW” Climbing Odyssey Rohnert Park (CA): This June, Paige Claassen, a professional rock climber and Marmot Athlete, is headed off on a world-wide climbing odyssey—a 12 month tour aptly named “Lead Now” and sponsored by Marmot. ...read more

Marmot Taps Eric Orton to be Company’s First Adventure Running Athlete

Rohnert Park (CA) —After decades of sponsoring athletes and expeditions in the climbing, mountaineering and backcountry skiing space, Marmot has recruited Eric Orton as the company’s first-ever Adventure Running Athlete. Eric, who is based in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is a ...read more

Boulder Long Sleeve by Marmot

The Boulder Long Sleeve by Marmot is a comfortable jersey knit long-sleeve, stretch-cotton crew neck for rock climbing, bouldering and all-around casual wear. Main Material: 92% Cotton/8% Elastane Features * Contrast Stitching * Crew Neck Tee * Flat Lock Seam Construction * ...read more

Marmot Sponsors 2nd Annual Great Russian River Race (2012)

Santa Rosa, (CA): On Saturday, May 12, Marmot Mountain LLC, an outdoor apparel, clothing and equipment manufacturer, currently based in Santa Rosa, will be teaming up with Russian Riverkeeper and the Sonoma County Regional Parks Department for the second annual (2012) Great ...read more

AAO Receives Marmot’s 2012 “Agency of the Year” Award

Rohnert Park, CA: Ames Adventure Outfitters, a successful sales agency that represents Marmot outdoor clothing and equipment throughout the mid-western states, has received Marmot's 2012 “Agency of the Year” award. This annual award is given to Marmot's top North American ...read more